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   <title>Landscaping &amp; Gardening idea in California</title>
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   <updated>2008-03-27T07:15:22Z</updated>
   <subtitle>Landscaping &amp; Gardening idea? Is this what you are looking for? this site brings you what you want to know! Let&apos;s check it out here right now!!</subtitle>
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<entry>
   <title>Compost YES,  Epsom Salts NO</title>
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   <id>tag:kamochi.com,2008:/landscapinggardeningca//50.23456</id>
   
   <published>2008-03-27T07:11:55Z</published>
   <updated>2008-03-27T07:15:22Z</updated>
   
   <summary>You&apos;ll often hear garden writers recomme...</summary>
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      <![CDATA[You'll often hear garden writers recommending the use of Epsom salts in the garden as a general rule.  First off, I'm not one of those writers.  Secondly, Epsom salts are essentially magnesium so if your garden soil is magnesium starved, adding the Epsom salts will seemingly work miracles. If your soil is not magnesium starved, adding Epsom salts is a waste of time, effort and money.

A magnesium deficiency is often a problem when the soil is acidic or composed mostly of sand.  So if your soil is acidic because you've been heavily feeding with chemical fertilizer or if you are in a housing development where sand is the rule rather than decent topsoil, you may need to add magnesium to boost plant performance. So a short term solution is to add some Epsom salts but the long term solution is to modify the soil pH so that it is less acidic and increase the organic matter content of the soil so it is less sandy.  Lime make soils less acidic and you'll need a soil test to tell you how much to add while compost is the key to solving organic matter problems.

The single best thing you can do and the quickest way to improve your garden's performance no matter your soil type or problem is to add copious amounts of compost.  The old time gardeners used to use two to four pounds per square foot of composted manure. That translates into one quarter to one half inches thick in our modern gardens.  Your plants will grow bigger and faster and the blooms and fruit will be bigger and healthier.  You can get <a target="_new" href="http://www.vegetable-gardening-tips.com">other vegetable gardening tips here</a>.

So forget the Epsom salts and pour on the compost for best plant performance.  And more is better.

Copyright Douglas Green 2005

Doug Green is an award winning garden author of 7 gardening books and numerous articles. A former nurseryman, he now writes full time, gives presentations and enjoys the spring.]]>
      
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<entry>
   <title>Dont Roll that Lawn</title>
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   <id>tag:kamochi.com,2008:/landscapinggardeningca//50.23455</id>
   
   <published>2008-03-26T07:11:55Z</published>
   <updated>2008-03-26T07:54:29Z</updated>
   
   <summary>Every spring some mysterious hormone hit...</summary>
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      <![CDATA[Every spring some mysterious hormone hits the male of the species and the urge to "do lawn work" strikes.

One rite of spring is act of rolling the lawn.  I've never been able to figure out why someone would roll a lawn; in my household, a lawn is for rolling on, not for being rolled.  Many local homeowners, no doubt hormonally unbalanced by the passing of winter, like to go out and drag a heavy weight around the lawn.  I recently read one newsletter that said the reason for rolling was to make sure the grass roots were in contact with the soil.  Right, and I've got a bridge I can sell you.  Grass roots, if properly grown, are quite deep and no amount of frost is going to throw them out of contact with the soil.  The only thing rolling a lawn accomplishes is to compact the soil.

Rolling the lawn compacts the soil squashing all the soil particles together. This means that air spaces necessary for good root growth are eliminated.  It also means that water can't penetrate the soil because there are no holes for it to move into.  The bulk of the water runs off the lawn and never penetrates deep into the soil to the root zone level. This run off water takes the dissolving plant food with it so the spring feeding is washed down the sewer.  In one fell swoop, rolling a lawn eliminates the necessary aeration, prevents water from entering and assists in the removal of spring applied fertilizer.  I can't think of an faster way to help put stress on a lawn than to roll the lawn first thing in the spring.

The professionals at the Turfgrass Institute agree, rolling your lawn is poor start to spring. And you can get even more lawn information at <a target="_new" href="http://www.beginner-gardening.com">Beginner-gardening.com</a>

Copyright 2005  Douglas Green.

Doug Green is an award winning garden author who has published 7 gardening books and has been in the nursery industry for what seems like forever.]]>
      
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</entry>
<entry>
   <title>Can Your Sundial Really Tell The Time?</title>
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   <id>tag:kamochi.com,2008:/landscapinggardeningca//50.23454</id>
   
   <published>2008-03-26T07:11:55Z</published>
   <updated>2008-03-26T07:38:31Z</updated>
   
   <summary>&quot;I am a sundial, and I make a botch  Of ...</summary>
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      <![CDATA["I am a sundial, and I make a botch
 Of what is done far better by a watch"

So wrote Hilaire Belloc, but is this really fair? Sundials are the earliest known form of time-keeping having been used for some five thousand years. The Greek historian Herodotus stated that sundials were first used by the Chaldeans and Sumerians in Babylonia which was part of the modern Iraq. They used vertical rods on their buildings and noted the position of the shadow to record the passing of the hours. The concept was developed by the Greeks and Romans who constructed various different shapes of dial to enable them to tell the time and the season of the year. Usually these were bowl-shaped dials with vertical or horizontal gnomons (shadow-casters) and hour lines marked in the hollow of the bowl. Over the years more elaborate designs were produced until the advent of accurate clocks when the function of the sundial became more decorative than as a reliable means of telling the time.

The question is often asked "Can a sundial really tell the correct time?" to which you will receive the Alice in Wonderland reply that it depends upon what you mean by "the correct time". Our clocks and watches work on the basis of there being exactly twenty-four hours between one day and the next but, because of the eliptical nature of the earth's orbit around the sun, the time shown on the sundial will vary according to the seasons. In February by the clock the sun is almost fifteen minutes slow, whereas during the spring and summer months it gains and loses between four and six minutes in two cycles.  At the other extreme in November the sundial appears to be some seventeen minutes fast. In fact the sundial is accurate on only four days of the year, about April 15, June 14, September 2 and December 25. Some sundials include a table showing the deviation from "clock time" according to the date.

The time indicated by the sun will also vary with the location of the dial. The sun travels across the sky at the rate of fifteen degrees per hour so  every degree of longditude represents a difference of four minutes from the standard meridian for the region. The angle of the gnomon also depends on the situation, so to set up your sundial correctly you need to know both the latitude and longditude of its location. For the United States and the United Kingdom this <a href="http://www.spot-on-sundials.co.uk/latitude.html"target="_blank">site</a> can provide the information.  The gnomon should be set at the angle in degrees which is equal to the  latitude of your location. The sundial can then be fixed with the gnomon pointing to the Pole Star. There are various ways of achieving this, the easiest of which, is to use a compass adjusted for the magnetic variation. Further details are beyond the scope of this article, but for those interested look at this <a href="http://www.sundials.co.uk/setup.htm"target="_blank">site.</a>

If you have read this far you will have discovered that there is a great deal more to the sundial than a mere item of garden decoration. If this has piqued your interest in the subject, then you are not alone. There are Sundial Societies in countries around the world. The <a href="http://www.sundials.org/"target="_blank">North American Sundial Society</a> has details of its objects and activities on its website.

A number of sundial trails have been established. A good example is the <a href="http://www.sundials.co.uk/~thames.htm"target="_blank">Thames Sundial Trail</a> in London, England. This site lists a number of other trails in countries all over the world but only two in the United States. However the <a href="http://www.sundials.org/"target="_blank">North American Sundial Society</a>  has a complete list on its website.

Two rather different designs are shown here. The first, which is commonly referred to as a <a href="http://users.argonet.co.uk/education/sunclocks/"target="_blank">Human Sundial</a>, uses the person's shadow to indicate the time. By standing in the appropriate box for the date the shadow will show the correct time. The second is a <a href="http://www.digitalsundial.com/"target=_blank">Digital Sundial</a> which sounds like a contradiction in terms but in reality is just a rather clever design.

Many sundials have a motto inscribed on the face. Often these are rather serious in tone and of the "Tempus fugit" variety but you also find some written in a lighter vein.  Here are a few of my favourites:

The shadow of my finger cast
Divides the future from the past

The clock the time may wrongly tell,
 I never if the sun shines well

I stand amid the summer flowers
 To tell the passage of the hours

And finally again from Hilaire Belloc:

I am a sundial, turned the wrong way round.
 I cost my foolish mistress fifty pounds!

Hugh Harris-Evans is the owner of <a target="_new" href="http://www.garden-supplies-advisor.com" >The Garden Supplies Advisor</a> where you will find further articles, gardening tips and product reviews.]]>
      
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</entry>
<entry>
   <title>The Container Vegetable Garden</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://kamochi.com/landscapinggardeningca/archives/2008/03/the_container_vegetable_garden.php" />
   <id>tag:kamochi.com,2008:/landscapinggardeningca//50.23453</id>
   
   <published>2008-03-26T07:11:55Z</published>
   <updated>2008-03-26T07:22:55Z</updated>
   
   <summary>If you live in an apartment or town home...</summary>
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      <![CDATA[If you live in an apartment or town home, you probably think you don't have enough space to grow vegetables.  Lack of space is no longer an excuse since many modern vegetable varieties are perfect for growing in containers on a sunny window ledge or patio.

You can grow salad vegetables and herbs in almost any sunny spot and enjoy fresh ingredients all year round.  Snipping off a sprig of fresh herbs from the window ledge garden in the kitchen while you are cooking cannot be bettered.

Here are some tips for the perfect container vegetable garden.

Choice of container.  The easiest choice is to go to your local garden center or home improvement store and pick any gardening container that takes your fancy.  There's a wide variety available in plastic, ceramic, wood or clay.  Before you pull out your credit card though, take a look around your home and see whatever containers you have lying around.  Almost anything that will hold soil can be used for growing, whether it is an old bucket, an empty margarine container or an empty coffee can.

Any container you use must have sufficient drainage holes in the bottom.  Make additional holes in containers that do not drain quickly after watering.  Waterlogged soil will lead to soil-borne diseases and stunted plants.  Stand the containers in a tray if these are indoors.

Using regular soil is not advisable for container plants, since soil is likely to have plant disease organisms and weed seeds.  Soil less potting mixes are lighter, less likely to compact and hold moisture and plant nutrients well.  These potting mixes can be purchased from any garden center.

Choice of plants.  Almost any herb is suitable for a container vegetable garden. Basil, thyme, mint, parsley, chives and oregano are all good choices.  Most salads can also be grown in containers.  Consider lettuce, young salad carrots, radishes, and green onions, for smaller containers.  Tomatoes, eggplant and peppers do well in a larger container on a sunny patio or balcony.  Choose dwarf varieties where these are available.

Seeds can either be planted either directly into the container or started in a smaller pot and transplanted once large enough to handle.  Always plant more seeds than you need in each container since there will seldom be 100% germination.  During the winter, seeds can be encouraged to grow early when placed next to a water heater or other warm (not hot) place.  Make sure that you move these to a sunny position as soon as they appear above the soil.

Ideally, containers should be placed where they receive at least 6 hours of sunlight per day.  Plants that bear fruit, such as tomatoes, peppers and eggplants require the most sun.  Many herbs and leafy vegetables will tolerate more shade.  Plants growing in containers require frequent watering especially if outdoors.  During the hot summer months many will require daily watering.

Plants will need fertilizer during the growing season.  The easiest way to add fertilizer is to use a commercial mix such as Miracle-Gro.  Follow the directions and do not over feed.  Most potting soils will have sufficient nutrients for the first few weeks.

Harvest when the plants are mature but still young and tender.   Small sprigs of most herbs can be clipped as needed and the plant will continue to grow.

Vince Apps is the editor of a number of gardening sites including <a target="_new" href="http://manualofgardening.com">Manual of Gardening</a> and <a target="_new" href="http://homevegetablegardeningonline.com">Home Vegetable Gardening</a>.]]>
      
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<entry>
   <title>Amish Furniture on the Front Porch</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://kamochi.com/landscapinggardeningca/archives/2008/03/amish_furniture_on_the_front_p.php" />
   <id>tag:kamochi.com,2008:/landscapinggardeningca//50.23452</id>
   
   <published>2008-03-25T07:11:55Z</published>
   <updated>2008-03-25T07:18:02Z</updated>
   
   <summary>While shopping on line the other day at ...</summary>
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      <![CDATA[While shopping on line the other day at www.stoveramishfurniture.com, I looked at the Amish Hickory Rocker. Now I have looked at this rocker many a time, but I have never thought about it.  Think about how many times a rocker like this, over the generations, has rocked a baby to sleep, or a grandpa. Think about those spring, summer and autumn nights on the porch watching the kids play on the streets, or just drinking a glass of cool sweet tea listen to the crickets.  How many times has one of these rockers sat in front of the fireplace, and comforted someone to sleep on a cold night.

Now I couldn't begin to tell you how long the Amish and others have been making this type of rocker, but I have personally sat in one that was 185 years old.  That rocker saw the Civil War, WWI, and WWII. That rocker comforted mothers that lost their sons.  That rocker saw five generations born and passed on.  Amazing, as it may be it has never been repaired or refinished.  Yes it is worn with marks of love.

Unlike other types of furniture, Amish Furniture, or the Amish Hickory Rocker, just can't be thrown away.  You can go to your super store and buy something that looks like it, or that serves the same purpose, but it will not last.  Unfortunately imports are coming and are showing up more and more on different web sites and in stores.  These imports are nothing like the ones sold by www.stoveramishfurniture.com.  Stover Amish Furniture offers Superior Quality Amish Furniture traditionally manufactured in the old ways.  The imports may try but they will never take the market away from this group of Proud Amish Americans.

If you have a chance and are looking for a rocker stop in to <a target="_new" href="http://www.stoveramishfurniture.com">www.stoveramishfurniture.com</a>. Your rear end will thank you for generations, and it will make your front porch happy. I not only run the place, I am a customer.

Just a simple guy.]]>
      
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</entry>
<entry>
   <title>Grow Organic Vegetables</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://kamochi.com/landscapinggardeningca/archives/2008/03/grow_organic_vegetables.php" />
   <id>tag:kamochi.com,2008:/landscapinggardeningca//50.23451</id>
   
   <published>2008-03-25T07:11:55Z</published>
   <updated>2008-03-25T07:59:56Z</updated>
   
   <summary>There are more reasons than ever why any...</summary>
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      <![CDATA[There are more reasons than ever why anybody with access to a few square feet of the  outdoors should grow their own organic vegetables.

You may be shocked at how much of the produce at your local supermarket has been genetically modified.  Some estimates now put this at over 50%.  While there is no strong evidence that genetically modified foods are immediately harmful to your health, there are no long term studies either.  Do you want to take that risk?

Let's take a look at pesticides and fertilizers.  Farmers no longer use crop rotation or natural manures to improve soil fertility, so they are forced to use ever increasing amounts of chemicals to improve yields and multiple pesticides to protect the weakened plants.  Pesticides penetrate deeply into the leaves of plants and pestiside residues remain even after you have scrubbed them.

To quote from The Environmental Protection Agency ? &quot;Pesticides are designed to kill pests. Many pesticides can also pose risks to people.  The health effects of pesticides depend on the type of pesticide. Some, such as the organophosphates and carbamates, affect the nervous system. Others may irritate the skin or eyes. Some pesticides may be carcinogens.   Others may affect the hormone or endocrine system in the body.&quot;

Sure you can, and should, buy organic fruit and vegetables but have you seen the prices?  Anybody with even a modest vegetable garden can grow healthy organic vegetables at much lower cost than those at the local supermarket.  Not only can you grow them at much lower cost, but you can grow them one hundred percent better.

Even the long-keeping vegetables such as potatoes, onions and squash are noticeably tastier picked straight from the home vegetable garden; but when it comes to peas and corn and salad vegetables- well , there is absolutely nothing to compare with the home garden ones, gathered fresh, in the early slanting sunlight, still gemmed with dew, still crisp and tender and juicy, ready to carry every atom of savory quality and taste, without loss, to the dining table.

It is not in price or health alone that home gardening pays. There is another point.  Agribusiness has to grow the things that give the biggest yield. They have to sacrifice quality and taste for quantity and long shelf life. You do not.  The strawberries on the supermarket shelves may look bright and red and uniform but you will soon find they taste more like the cardboard of their containers when compared to a home grown variety picked straight from the vine.

And this brings us to what may be the most important reason you should garden. It is the cheapest, healthiest pleasure there is. Give me a sunny garden patch in the springtime, give me seeds to watch as they find the light, plants to tend as they take hold in the fine, loose, rich soil, give me succulent and tasty springtime salads.   And when you have grown tired of the springtime, come back in summer to even the smallest garden, and you will find in it, every day, a new vista, new pleasures and, yes, new challenges.

Better food, better health, better living -- all these the home vegetable garden offers you in abundance. So, turn off that computer, pull out some old clothes and find a spot to dig.

Vince Apps 
<a target="_new" href="http://manualofgardening.com">http://manualofgardening.com</a>]]>
      
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<entry>
   <title>Homemade Hummingbird Nectar</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://kamochi.com/landscapinggardeningca/archives/2008/03/homemade_hummingbird_nectar.php" />
   <id>tag:kamochi.com,2008:/landscapinggardeningca//50.23450</id>
   
   <published>2008-03-25T07:11:55Z</published>
   <updated>2008-03-25T08:10:23Z</updated>
   
   <summary>HUMMINGBIRD NECTAR RECIPE We love hummin...</summary>
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      <![CDATA[HUMMINGBIRD NECTAR RECIPE

We love hummingbirds and love to watch them throughout the day, especially after a long day, relaxing in our backyard nature retreat.

We have 4 feeders that are strategically located throughout our gardens. The red, hummingbird nectar feeders ( red attracts hummingbirds) are placed in areas that are naturally defined &quot;territories&quot; ( as you know, hummingbirds are very territorial) which helps cut down on the fighting.

Our recipe is derived from the old standard recipe, but please be aware that a lot of research has gone into making sure that we are providing the most beneficial source of hummingbird food replacement.

Our recipe starts with cane sugar. As you know, there are two sources of sugar: cane sugar and beet sugar, of which 70% of the world's supply comes from cane sugar. Both are chemically  &quot;sucrose&quot; and fall into the carbohydrate family. Carbohydrates are easily digested and provide the immediate &quot;energy boost&quot; that hummingbirds need to sustain their incredibly high metabolism. (Comment: I guess if we humans had that kind of metabolism we wouldn't be facing our obesity crisis! Wow?what a concept ?more exercise?increased metabolic rate ?burn more calories ?less fat).

Sorry! Back to the topic?the second constituent our hummingbird food recipe is water. Ever thought about the type of water you use for your hummingbird food? We have. The hummingbird's source water comes from the naturally occurring water sources available: dew, rain water and deposits of rain water, people provided (bird baths), and finally that provided in the hummingbird's diet.

We use our tap water which is supplied from our well. The water's chemical composition is generally hard ( contains calcium and magnesium) but has a TDS ( Total Dissolved Solids) of 275 ppm with no measurable concentrations of lead or arsenic. Its safe for us to drink so the hummers get the benefits of some added minerals. We feel its better than using distilled or purified water in our hummingbird recipe.

Now, if you're a city dweller, you may have chlorine or flouride added to your water. I'd recommend boiling that water to flash off the chlorine or flouride, 5 minutes of boiling should be sufficient.

Next ingredient ?.RED COLORING?.No way!

Lets look at it from a hummingbird's perspective. They like red and are attracted to the color due to genetics and environmental stimuli ? flowers. If your hummingbird feeder is red? why do you need more?

Naturally occurring nectar is clear and odorless ( Hummingbirds are not attracted by scent). So why buy these colored or scented mixes?

The red coloring (Red #40) has been banned in countries due to its mutagenic properties ( can cause cancer). Why would you want to introduce chemicals into the hummingbird's diet that are foreign to their digestive system?

Several experienced, licensed wildlife rehabilitators have reported seeing disturbing damage in hummers that were known to use dyed syrup, including tumors of the bill and liver.

Here is our researched hummingbird food recipe:

1 part cane sugar/ 4 parts water ( no chlorine or fluoride)Measure and add sugar, at the rate of 1/4 cup of sugar to 1 cup of water. Let cool and store excess in refrigerator until ready to use.

Fill one-third of the container and be sure to change the mixture twice a week. You will need to clean your feeder every few days, with hot water and a mild (10%) bleach solution to inhibit bacteria/mold. Rinse thoroughly before refilling with water syrup.

Hope you enjoyed the article!

George Steiner
<a target="_new" href="http://www.hum-ming-bird.com">www.hum-ming-bird.com</a>

George and wife Judy are empty nesters (ah ha no wonder the affinity for birds!)who enjoy the outdoors, stained glass and eagerly awaiting for the truckloads of laundry that their two college daughters bring home. Of recent, the internet has played an integral part in George's lengthening "To Do" list and Judy's search for a internet rehabilitation center.]]>
      
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<entry>
   <title>How to Raise House Plants from Seeds Easily</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://kamochi.com/landscapinggardeningca/archives/2008/03/how_to_raise_house_plants_from.php" />
   <id>tag:kamochi.com,2008:/landscapinggardeningca//50.23449</id>
   
   <published>2008-03-24T07:11:55Z</published>
   <updated>2008-03-24T13:27:52Z</updated>
   
   <summary>The principal house plants which are eas...</summary>
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      <![CDATA[The principal house plants which are easy to raise by sowing seeds are Aloe (succulent plant), Asparagus species, Begonia semper-florensundB. rex, cacti (many kinds), Clivia, Cyclamen, Eucalyptus, Fuchsia (varieties), Grevillea robusta, Opuntia, Passijiora, Phoenix (palm), Primula malacoides and P. obconica, Ricinus, Rochea (succulent plant), Saintpaulia (hybrids) and Solatium capsicastrum.

The most suitable compost

It is best to sterilise the compost, and it should therefore be heated in a sterilising apparatus for 10 minutes at a temperature of 18o° F. After this partial sterilisation, the compost must be spread out on a bench to cool before use.

Watering a seed pan by partial immersion

A simple method of sterilising the compost is to water it with Cheshunt Compound steriliser. This chemical can be obtained from any seed store. It consists of a powder which, when dissolved in water, is sprinkled over the compost before or after the seeds have been sown. It is perfectly safe to use, and does not injure the smallest seedlings. Seed boxes and pots can be sterilised by this method and thereby made pest free. A satisfactory seed compost may be obtained by sterilising the loam only, and then adding the peat, sand and fertiliser.

Preparing the seed compost

The soil ingredients are sifted through a sieve having a |-mch mesh and thoroughly mixed. The pots or seed pans are given plenty of drainage crocks which are covered with rough siftings from the compost, and the receptacles are then filled with the compost.

This is made moderately firm by pressing it with the fingers; it is then moistened by holding the receptacle in a pail of water.The water must not come above the rim of the pot because it is necessary that the moisture should rise up through the compost. As soon as the surface of the soil becomes damp, the pot is set aside to drain for a few hours before seed sowing is commenced.

The depth to which the seeds are covered depends on their size. Very fine seeds, such as those of Begonia, require only a fine sprinkling of silver sand, whereas larger seeds should be covered to the depth of their greatest dimensions. When the seeds have been sown, the receptacles should be covered with panes of glass and shaded with sheets of paper.

Each day the glass should be reversed to prevent the condensed moisture from dripping on to the soil, and setting up decay. As soon as the seedlings appear, however, the paper covering must he removed and ventilation of the receptacle begun. The glass covering should therefore be tilted slightly. This is conveniently done by means of the plant label, and the amount of air is increased in this way until the covering can be removed altogether.

Pricking out the seedlings

As soon as the seedlings have developed their first true leaves they are pricked out ½ inch apart in pots of fertile compost such as John Innes Potting Mixture No. 1, and immediately watered in. They are shaded from bright sunlight until they are established. This generally takes 7-14 days, after which they are given more light and air. The 'cuttings' are taken in the usual way, by severing them just below a node (where a leaf is inserted in the stem). They are then fixed in the mouths of small-necked bottles where they remain suspended. The bottles are filled to within a fraction of an inch of the top of the necks with water, preferably rain water.

To prevent green scum (algae) forming in the water, it is best to place a few small lumps of charcoal in it. If this operation is done in the spring, the bottles of 'cuttings' can be set on the window-sill, and roots will form in a few weeks. Potting must be done immediately roots begin to form.

Visit: <a target="_new" href="http://www.realniches.com">http://www.realniches.com</a> or <a target="_new" href="http://www.realniches.com/archives/category/gardening/">http://www.realniches.com/archives/category/gardening/</a> for some useful tips on home indoor gardening.

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<entry>
   <title>The Rich History of Chrysanthemums</title>
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   <id>tag:kamochi.com,2008:/landscapinggardeningca//50.23448</id>
   
   <published>2008-03-24T07:11:55Z</published>
   <updated>2008-03-24T07:45:12Z</updated>
   
   <summary>Did you know that those lush, colorful b...</summary>
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      <![CDATA[Did you know that those lush, colorful blooms called chrysanthemums are rooted in beliefs of human immortality and perfection? Today the "mum" graces gardens, cut flower arrangements and even salads (yes mums taste great), but they were taken much more seriously after T'ao Yuan Ming started it all in China around 500 A.D.

Over long periods of careful cross-pollination and selection, he developed stunning varieties of the flower and when he died, his birthplace was renamed Chuhsien. The City of Chrysanthemums. His efforts had produced a legacy that would bring pleasure to this world for centuries.

When China imported the first chrysanthemums to Japan, the people there bestowed many honors upon them. The Japanese wrote legends. To sip dew from the petals meant long life. To eat the flower meant immortality. Philosophers said that the systematic opening of the "ray" flowers symbolized both the sun and the perfection of orderly life.

By 800 A.D. the chrysanthemum had become so prestigious that only royal and noble families were permitted to cultivate it. Among the highest honors that could be bestowed in Japan was admittance to the Order of the Chrysanthemum... a reward granted to nobility for service to the Emperor.

In great contrast to this, the "mum" didn't make much of an impression when traders introduced it to Europe in the 1600s. But when in finally did catch on, it became one of the most popular blooms for both flower shops and gardens.

Today the mum comes in dozens of varieties. Fuji mums project rays with curly ends. Spider mums have straight-ended rays. Starburst mums have forked ends, while spoon-ended mums have a loop at the end of their rays. China mums are called "standard" and "football" because of their large, round heads. Daisy-like mums are called pompons. And those forming tight little balls are called button pomps.

Whether associated with spoons, forks or footballs, or with royalty or immortality, "mum" is the word for beautiful gardens and long-lasting floral arrangements. When you care for them as cut flowers, try to keep their ancient beauty away from such modern-day contraptions as air conditioning, TV sets and heaters. Don't place them in drafts or direct sunlight. Do watch their water, and replace it when needed. This way, a bouquet of mums can make your day every day for at least a week, maybe two.

Additional information and resources related to this article can be found at: <a target="_new" HREF="http://www.garden-source.com/archives/2005/05/30/the-rich-history-of-chrysanthemums/">http://www.garden-source.com/archives/
2005/05/30/the-rich-history-of-chrysanthemums/</a>

© 2005 This article is provided courtesy of The Garden Source Network - <a target="_new" HREF="http://www.garden-source.com">http://www.garden-source.com</a>

This article may be freely published on any website, as long as the links are live, and this notice is left intact.]]>
      
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<entry>
   <title>How and When to Plant Roses</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://kamochi.com/landscapinggardeningca/archives/2008/03/how_and_when_to_plant_roses.php" />
   <id>tag:kamochi.com,2008:/landscapinggardeningca//50.23447</id>
   
   <published>2008-03-24T07:11:55Z</published>
   <updated>2008-03-24T12:27:23Z</updated>
   
   <summary>When spring comes and the ground is thaw...</summary>
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      <![CDATA[When spring comes and the ground is thawed, it is time to start planting your rose garden. Roses have been a cherished aphrodisiac since biblical times. They have been around for over 3000 years, yet they still hold a particular mystery and fascination, not to mention the fact that they just look and smell good!

One of the most important rules of growing roses is to plant the rose bush in an area that receives around 4 to 6 hours of sunlight every day.

It is preferable not to plant too many trees or other plants around the rose bush because most of these are likely to either mix with the rose or stifle it's growth. If you are replacing an old rose bush, approximately 1 1/2 cubic feet of old soil should be removed, and fresh soil added to replace it. When positioning your rose in the garden or landscape, consider the growth habit of the rose.

For example, place climbers and ramblers along fences, trellises, or next to arches or pergolas. This location offers them free range of growth, and optimal potential for the showiest blooms.

Roses also look beautiful in island garden beds interplanted with perennials. Miniature roses make great edging plants in front of their taller cousins. Planted singly, shrub roses make excellent specimen plants or they can be clustered to make a flowering hedge. You can also use them to camouflage unsightly garden objects.

Dig a hole large enough for the root mass and loosen the bottom of the hole. You should add bone meal, which is a slow acting source of phosphorus that leads to healthy root growth in the rose plant.

Then the plant should be placed in the hole carefully and the hole refilled with soil, covering the roots properly. Before making the final covering, water the rose plant and let it absorb the water. After this, water the plant more and mound the soil about 6 inches high. The dome will keep the stems from drying out until the plant is rooted. Gradually remove the excess soil as the leaves open.

Special care should be taken with the planting depth. It varies according to the climate you live in.

If you live in a colder area, plant a bit deeper and consult with the people growing roses in your area. If you are buying potted roses, you should plant them about 1 inch deeper than their potted level.

The best time to plant roses varies depending on the winter temperature. Where temperatures don't drop below -10 degrees F; either fall or spring planting is satisfactory. If you live in an area where winter temperatures go below -10 degrees F, spring planting is preferred. Plants should be planted in a dormant condition if purchased bare root, but container grown plants may be planted throughout the growing season.

Spacing of the rose plant is highly influenced by the temperature. In regions where winters are severe, the rose plant does not grow as large as in mild climates. Taking this into consideration, hybrid tea roses should be spaced 1 1/2 to 3 feet apart. Large vigorous growers, such as hybrid perpetuals need 3 to 5 feet of space, and the climbers need from 8 to 10 feet of space.

If the winter temperature is below 10 degrees F, roses can grow healthy if proper care is taken. The gardener must prepare for that cold, wet reality as he revels in the summer air conditioning.

In zones 7 and colder, the roses enjoy their last fertilization of the season by August 15th to limit the emergence of new rose canes, which will almost certainly not survive the winter.

Additional information and resources related to this article can be found at: <a target="_new" HREF="http://www.garden-source.com/archives/2005/05/26/how-and-when-to-plant-roses/">http://www.garden-source.com/archives/
2005/05/26/how-and-when-to-plant-roses/</a>

© 2005 This article is provided courtesy of The Garden Source Network - <a target="_new" HREF="http://www.garden-source.com">http://www.garden-source.com</a>

This article may be freely published on any website, as long as the links are live, and this notice is left intact.]]>
      
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<entry>
   <title>Add Rich Color To Your Garden With Blue Perennial Flowers</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://kamochi.com/landscapinggardeningca/archives/2008/03/add_rich_color_to_your_garden.php" />
   <id>tag:kamochi.com,2008:/landscapinggardeningca//50.23446</id>
   
   <published>2008-03-23T07:11:55Z</published>
   <updated>2008-03-23T09:32:58Z</updated>
   
   <summary>Blue flowers are some of the most striki...</summary>
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      <![CDATA[Blue flowers are some of the most striking plants around and can add a rich splash of color to any garden. Plant them in a cluster of all blue or mix them in with other flowers for a rainbow of color.

When planting flowers, it is important to remember to follow the instructions on the tag for the plant. Always buy plants that will thrive in the conditions in which you intend to grow them. A plant that loves sun won't do well in a shady area and you will only be disappointed with the results.

When planning your garden, be aware of the bloom time of the flowers. Planting perennials with different bloom times near each other will insure a garden that has blooms all season long. Remember also to plan for the height of the plants, putting the taller ones in the back.

Below is a list of favorite blue flowering plants that you might want to consider for your garden:

Polemonuim, Blue Pearl - A compact plant with deep sky blue flowers that grows to 10". It blooms in late spring to early summer. Plant in partial shade and in well drained soil.

Blue Sea Holly - This dramatic plant has a lavender blue cone like flower with long spiked petals. It grows to 30" and is a favorite for dried flower arrangements. Plant in full sun - blooms in mid to late summer.

Delphinium, Butterfly Blue - Bright blue delicate flowers adorn this plant that blooms in early to mid summer. It reaches 10" tall and prefers a sunny location with rich moist soil.

Campanula, Blue Carpet - Bright blue to lilac colored flowers bloom for weeks in the middle of summer. This low growing perennial grows to 4" and prefers full sun with well drained soil.

Penstemon, Blue Buckle - This plant has tubular shaped blooms in blue to purple and flowers in mid summer to early fall. It grows to 15" and likes well drained soil with full or partial sun.

Hydrangea, Nikko Blue - Gigantic clumps of blue flowers adorn this shrub for most of the summer. In the fall, the flowers turn a golden color. This plant is a new variety that prefers rich soil but will grow in shade, partial sun or full sun.

Vinca - Medium blue flowers and glossy green leaves form a carpet that grows to about 6" tall and blooms in mid spring. This plant will grow in most soil conditions, in the shade or sun.

Ajuga, Bronze Beauty - This short bushy plant has spikes of blue flowers that grows quickly. Great as a ground cover or in raised beds. It blooms in spring and prefers a shady area.

Scabiosa, Butterfly Blue - A bushy perennial with lavender blue flowers that bloom from June to October. This plant likes full sun and attracts butterflies and hummingbirds.

Verbena, Babylon Blue - Blue purple flowers petals adorn this plant that blooms in early spring. Great for window boxes and planters.

Additional information and resources for this article can be found at: <a target="_new" HREF="http://www.garden-source.com/archives/2005/05/24/add-rich-color-to-your-garden-with-blue-perennial-flowers/">http://www.garden-source.com/archives/2005/05/24/
add-rich-color-to-your-garden-with-blue-perennial-flowers/</a>

A beautiful blue wildflower picture can be found at: <a target="_new" HREF="http://www.garden-source.com/archives/2005/06/02/blue-wildflower-in-kathys-garden/">http://www.garden-source.com/archives/2005/06/02/
blue-wildflower-in-kathys-garden/</a>

© 2005 This article is provided courtesy of The Garden Source Network - <a target="_new" HREF="http://www.garden-source.com">http://www.garden-source.com</a>

This article may be freely published on any website, as long as the links are live, and this notice is left intact.]]>
      
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<entry>
   <title>Garden Room Boundaries</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://kamochi.com/landscapinggardeningca/archives/2008/03/garden_room_boundaries_1.php" />
   <id>tag:kamochi.com,2008:/landscapinggardeningca//50.23445</id>
   
   <published>2008-03-23T07:11:55Z</published>
   <updated>2008-03-23T09:33:01Z</updated>
   
   <summary>The areas of your landscape can be divid...</summary>
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      <![CDATA[The areas of your landscape can be divided into several sections and areas, which are also known as garden rooms. Garden rooms are spaces where you plant, grow, and display different ideas in gardening in various creative methods. One garden room could be a rose garden, while another could include the use of a water garden, while still another garden room in your landscape could include the use of just purple flowers. Garden rooms are your creation, and only limited to your imagination.

To create the rooms in your landscape where you can be both different and creative you need to actually create some type of walls in your gardens. The walls in your gardens are going to be grown from other larger types of plants. Living fences are one 'way' that you can create garden rooms.

Dependable shrubs and hedges that you can use for fences or as wall between the garden rooms include various types such as:

Forsythia is a spring flowering shrubs that would make the country garden room lovely. Long after the spring months, the flowers will die off but the leaves on this shrub will fill in as a wall nicely.

Broadleaf evergreens are another type of shrub that is very popular in creating garden rooms. One in particular is the boxwood. The boxwood can be shaped rounded or with a boxy shape. It will take years to grow to be very tall, but it is a very thick shrub, that will create wonderful walls for the garden rooms. The leaves are very small, appearing in the late spring months and lasting until the very coldest of the winter months.

There are many 'ways' that you can create walls in the garden to grow private rooms. Lilacs are a 'flowering boundary type' plant that will spread but very slowly. The flowers on the taller bushes create a nice backdrop for many garden rooms. The Border Privet is a smaller shrub that is fast growing. This plant would grow to fill in the walls of any room in the garden.

Juniper evergreens, holly, burning bushes, and even rose bushes grow and tame to produce what will look like walls. When you are creating several different areas in your landscape, you have hundreds of choices of plants, shrubs, or even bushes that will fill in nicely.

One important thing to remember when you start creating your walls for any type of garden room is that the final display inside of the room is going to be accented by the type of plants that you use to create the actual room.

© 2004 Electronic Perceptions This article is provided courtesy of <a target="_new" HREF="http://www.garden-source.com">The Garden Source Network</a> - a large gardening network devoted to helping you find all the gardening materials you need, such as Seeds, Live Plants, Roses, Trees and Beautiful decor.

This article may be distributed and published on any website, as long as this statement and URL remain intact, and the website address is linked properly.]]>
      
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<entry>
   <title>Gardening with Bamboo</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://kamochi.com/landscapinggardeningca/archives/2008/03/gardening_with_bamboo.php" />
   <id>tag:kamochi.com,2008:/landscapinggardeningca//50.23444</id>
   
   <published>2008-03-23T07:11:55Z</published>
   <updated>2008-03-23T09:33:02Z</updated>
   
   <summary>Myths and facts A misconception about ba...</summary>
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      <![CDATA[<b>Myths and facts</b>
A misconception about bamboo is that they spread like wildfire. This is not entirely true as only a some species of bamboo will be invasive. Spreading, however, can easily be controlled if it becomes a problem. Many people also think that bamboos will die when the temperature falls below freezing. This myth is also false.

<b>Designing with bamboo</b>
Bamboos can create a wall or screen to provide privacy, used in containers for your deck, terrace or patio, or create a bamboo forest, maze or retreat - whatever you like!

Bamboos compliment perennials and annuals well and can be used as a background or an accent plant or low border depending on the variety of bamboo used.

Bamboos are actually a grass colony plant with over 1200 species world wide. Approximately 200 species can be grown without complications in North America.

<b>Additional information about bamboo</b>
Certain species of bamboos are runners while others grow in clumps. Some bamboos have narrow leaves and others have wide leaves. When the main stem (known as culms or canes) emerge from the ground or media, they sprout at the diameter they will remain into maturity. Successive clumps will emerge with wider and taller than previous season's.

<b>Running bamboo</b>
The clum is typically hollow except at the nodes, the area where horizontal branches grow. A rhizome is a horizontal "creeping" stem on or just above the ground, from which new shoots grow and roots descend.

Running bamboo's rhizomes may spread a considerable distance from the mother plant. On the contrary, clumping bamboos grow in-place and do not spread out as much (some pruning may be necessary).

<b>Selecting a variety of bamboo</b>
Bamboos have two types of root systems. First are the runners, which is found in temperate environments and is known as runners. The second types are the "clumpers" which are typically found in tropical varieties. This variety will also spread, however, it's not as invasive and only requires pruning to control.

Bamboos are available in various heights and can be trimmed if it gets too tall. A general rule is that taller bamboos require more sunlight than smaller varieties. Tall-growing varieties, like the yellow groove prefers several hours daily, while a smaller variety may tolerate partly shaded environments well.

During the spring, the leaves will yellow and fall from the plant. The loss is gradual as with other types of plants and the leaves are replaced with new foliage.

<b>Health condition</b>
Healthy bamboos should have a combination of yellow leaves, new unfurling leaves, and green leaves. If the foliage is yellowing, falling off and shows no signs of new growth then the bamboo is possibly saturated in water. If the leaves are crisp then it's possible the bamboo is quite dry and needs water immediately.

This article courtesy of <a target="_new" href="http://www.hydroponicsearch.com">http://www.hydroponicsearch.com</a> - The internet's only agriculture, horticulture and aquaculture search engine and community.]]>
      
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<entry>
   <title>Orchid Myths -The Truth</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://kamochi.com/landscapinggardeningca/archives/2008/03/orchid_myths_the_truth.php" />
   <id>tag:kamochi.com,2008:/landscapinggardeningca//50.23443</id>
   
   <published>2008-03-22T07:11:55Z</published>
   <updated>2008-03-22T16:57:52Z</updated>
   
   <summary>Here are some of the popular orchid myth...</summary>
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      <![CDATA[Here are some of the popular orchid myths

#1 Orchids are Carnivorous

They are not, in fact, they pollinate by luring insects to them but they do not eat the insects. This helps the orchid gardening

Orchid Myths#2 Orchids come from the Tropics

Some orchid flowers do come from the tropical climates but they grow in any climate and in any country, even Alaska.

#3 Orchids are Expensive.

Not anymore. Now with the increased number of orchid gardening and growers, the modern reproductive methods orchids now are reasonably priced.

#4 Orchids are Hard to Grow.

This orchid myths is now furthest from the truth. They are not anymore difficult than any other plant. They need the basics, water, light, air and fertilizer. And you can have a beautful orchid flowers that last for years.

Some Orchid Questions

#1 Are all orchids the same?

On the contrary o what most florists want you to believe, they come in over 28,000 varieties, they are the largest plant family. There are estimates of 110,000 hybrids today. They grow from thimble size (Mystacidium) to over 20 feet tall (Renanthera storei)

#2 What soil do they grow in?

Most orchids require no soil. In nature orchids are divided into 4 classes;

Epiphytes air plants (majority of orchids) grow on trees

Lithophytes air plants grow on rock surfaces

Saprophytes air plants grown on decaying vegetation

Terrestrials ground plants grow in soil

#3 Do orchids only last a short time?

On the contrary most species can last for years if taken care of. There are some plants which were propagated in the 18th century and continue to live today.

#4 How often do they bloom?

It varies according to the variety and hybrid but they can bloom from once to 2 - 4 times a year. The blossoms can last for weeks to months which is a real plus.

#5 How old is my plant?

Orchids can take years to come to maturity and bloom. Typically, the plants are anywhere from 5 to 8 years old.

#6 Is conservation of orchids important?

According to the American Orchid Society this is a priority. Threats to orchids come primarily from loss of habitat and collecting. The AOS encourages the purchase of only artificially propagated orchids.

#7 Should orchids be protected from a draft?This could be another orchid myths, but the answer is no, orchids prefer moving air but should not be over a heating or air conditioning vent.

<b>Visit our Orchid Store: http://www.orchid-store.orchids-plus-more.com</b>

** This article can be used freely as long as the author and the Orchids-Plus-More.com are identified within the article

Bob Roy has an orchid site with many articlea and information on orchids. His website is quite popular, <a target="_new" href="http://www.orchids-plus-more.com">http://www.orchids-plus-more.com</a>. You will also see a large selection of stunning orchids]]>
      
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<entry>
   <title>Growing Orchids as House Plants</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://kamochi.com/landscapinggardeningca/archives/2008/03/growing_orchids_as_house_plant.php" />
   <id>tag:kamochi.com,2008:/landscapinggardeningca//50.23442</id>
   
   <published>2008-03-22T07:11:55Z</published>
   <updated>2008-03-22T10:07:06Z</updated>
   
   <summary>One of the long standing myths that I st...</summary>
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      <![CDATA[One of the long standing myths that I still hear is that orchid house plants are difficult and finicky to grow. Well, plain and simple, the answer is No. In fact, orchids as house plants are easy to grow and will continue to bloom for years. Some orchid plants have been around for centuries.

Watering

Orchid house plants and orchid plants in general will need watering periodically, usually you can water once a week. Remember, most orchids are air plants and this means you will see their roots. Their root system is very efficient in storing water.

Here is a watering guide you can use: Cattleya, oncidium and dendrobium orchids like to dry out between watering. An easy way to water is to put the plant in the sink and let water flow through the plant for about 1 minute. Remember, let the water drain from the plant before putting it back into the decorative pot.

Plhalaenopsis orchids like to almost dry out between watering. To decide on the next watering is to stick your finger about an inch into the moss which should feel spongy and not bone dry.

Paphiopedilum and epidendrum should be slightly moist so that watering can be twice a week.

Humidity

If the humidity in your home is low (below 40%) you may need to either mist the plant occasionally or use a humidity tray. The tray is simply a metal or plastic tray that is filled with pebbles and 1/2 of water. The plant would sit would sit on the pebbles. Be sure not to let the plant or roots sit in the water while on the tray.

The Right Lighting

Light is the next most important element to growing orchid plants. As a general statement most orchid house plants do well in medium light. This would in a window or an area that could get about 4 hours a day. Cattleya orchids do well in this light but can also do well in a sunlit area for up to six hours. Phals do well in indirect but bright light.

More in depth information is included in theOrchid Growing Course, free with the purchase of an orchid plant.

What about temperature?

Most orchids do well in normal house temperature. The low temperature at night do not impede the growth. Here is a little guide you can use.

Orchid Genre Minimum temp Degrees F Maximum temp Degrees F

Phalaenopsis       60                     90

Vanda

Paphiopedilum (mottle leaf)  55           85

Dendrobium

Cattleya,

Epidendum

Paphiopedilum (green leaf)   50          80

Oncidium

Miltonia

So, you too can join the millions and a grow orchids just as successful as your neighbor.

<b>Visit our Orchid Store: http://www.orchid-store.orchids-plus-more.com</b>

This article may be reproduced without permission as long as the author and Web site are noted in the article.

Bob Roy has a e business in orchids. There are many oarticles dealing with orchids on his web site, <a target="_new" href="http://www.orchids-plus-more.com">orchids-plus-more.com</a> as well as a large selection of stunning orchid plants.]]>
      
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